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MODELING TERMS
The terms used to describe various types of modeling and photography are often poorly defined. Such ambiguity can result in misunderstandings and uncomfortable situations for models, photographers, and other industry professionals. In an effort to clarify terms and reduce miscommunication, we have provided a list of terms which describe various types of modeling and photography, as well as various styles and states of dress.
This list is not all inclusive and serves only as a guide for models and photographers, so that they may have some common ground by which they may discuss various projects. Please note that the terms are not mutually exclusive, in other words, Fetish may be Semi-Nude, Full Nude, or may not contain any nudity. You should always ensure that the terms of any agreement you make with another individual are explicitly stated in writing.
AFTRA
(American Federation of TV and Radio Actors) is the union that represents most actors in TV shows, videos and commercials. There is an overlap with SAG, (Screen Actors Guild) which represents talent in movies, etc. Generally speaking AFTRA deals with video and SAG deals with film, but each may be involved with either. A project is either AFTRA or SAG, but not both.
ART DIRECTOR
The person from the advertising agency who is responsible for the art/design of the project.
ARTISTIC NUDITY
Artistic nudity is a form of nudity that is quite tasteful in the nature of poses, but is still revealing. Photographers who do this often work in black and white or with unique lighting scenarios. Generally speaking, these are the types of photos that are intended for gallery display rather than in magazines.
AUDITION
Interview with a photographer, art director, casting director or client where they evaluate you for a particular opportunity. Where specific talents are required, it is not unusual for you to be asked to perform. As an example, for acting, one might be asked to read lines from a script.
BEAUTY SHOT
BIKINI AUDITION
The same as an audition except that one will be asked to appear in a bikini so that the client may evaluate your figure.
BILLING FORM/VOUCHER
BIT
The term applies to a role as an extra where the actor is asked to do something specific on camera for which there are no lines. As an example, if one were an extra acting as a doorman at a hotel, went up to a car, opened the door so an actor might exit, that would be doing a “bit.”
BODY CHECK
For an assignment where shape is critical, a casting director may want to view your figure. This will often be done in a bikini. In some cases, a body check will require nudity (if the assignment requires nudity). It is important to never disrobe at an audition unless you were informed in advance of the nature of the assignment and have discussed the requirements with your manager and/or agent first.
BODY DOUBLE
Normally in feature films, when a featured actor/actress is either unwilling or unable to show their body, an alternate person is used without showing their face, and filmed in such a way as to suggest it is the featured character. NOTE While body doubling often involves nudity, many times it does not. As an example, an actress may need to appear pregnant when she is not. An actress might need to appear in a swimsuit, but for a particular reason, she may not so a body double might be used.
BODY MODELING
This is where shape and form are essential. It isn’t necessarily, and often is not nude. Examples posters you see for beer or tools. You will see a model dressed in a sexy swimsuit.
BOOK
Another term for “portfolio” which is defined here in detail.
BOOKER
A person who works for a talent agency and actually books jobs for models.
BOOKING
A term used synonymously with “a job that has been offered to the model and accepted.”
BOOKING CONDITIONS
BOOKING OUT
BOUDOIR
A style of print that is normally a lingerie style or an implied nude glamour or similar shot in an indoor, bedroom setting.
BUY OUT
CALL BACK
After auditions have occurred, the casting director will often narrow the field of candidates for a particular assignment. You are then being called back for further consideration to help the casting director make a final selection. A call back will often entail a more specific process such as a body check, screen test or wardrobe check.
CASTING CALL
A notice put out by a producer, art director or casting director of an opportunity in a film, video, commercial or print project.
CASTING COUCH
A term from the early days of the entertainment industry. It basically means that a producer is soliciting sexual favors in return for a part in a film or a print project. This needs to be emphasized. This is a big business. Nobody is made famous because they sleep with a director. There is just too much money involved. If someone propositions you in return for a job, get up and walk out. That is the smartest move you will ever make!
CASTING DIRECTOR
The person in charge of, or responsible for casting a project. Most commonly, a casting director is used in film and video, but are sometimes used for print projects.
CATTLE CALL
An audition where dozens of models are brought in and paraded by the casting director to seek out a particular look. It could also just be a notice of an opportunity where the casting director is trying to get the largest participation so that he can select someone who has just the right look and talent.
CLOSED SET
A set that has been closed to public access and is likewise closed to anybody who has not been given a specific authorization to be present.
COMMERCIAL MODELING
This is modeling in which a product is being presented and it is the central focus of the photo. A shot might be generic, such as a model outdoors walking, yet the photo would be commercial if it were used in advertising or marketing.
COMMERCIAL NUDITY
Commercial nudity is similar to implied nudity except it is intended for the commercial, rather than the glamour market. Examples would be Calvin Klein ads where the model is topless but wearing jeans, panty hose ads where the model is nude in panty hose or soap commercials where a model is taking a shower but nothing shows. This can be contrasted with Maxim magazine, where again, the nudity is non-revealing, but is clearly more glamour than commercial.
COMPOSITE CARD/COMP CARD
A card with photos on it as well as your stats and contact information that is submitted for consideration when casting projects.
CONTACT SHEET
CONTINENTAL
This is a term that is being seen more frequently. It originates in the United Kingdom and generally signifies a pornographic assignment.
DAY RATE
DEFERRAL
This is another term for “Deferred Compensation.” In this form a payment, all or part of the monies due a model or actor are deferred until a certain event. Most commonly, talent is paid a percentage of future earnings. A word of caution, while deferral agreements sometimes sound appealing, legalistic definitions of profit or a production that is unsuccessful means that, in reality, most of these arrangements will not result in payments to talent.
EDITORIAL PRINT
EROTIC MODELING
EXPLICIT NUDITY
This is a level of nudity that is somewhat less than what would be considered pornographic. The term “explicit” means that you will be asked to reveal your genitals fully.
EXTRA
A person with a non-speaking part in a film or commercial. They may be part of a crowd or non-descript in the distance. If they are alone on camera performing a specific function, they are considered a “featured extra.”
FASHION MODELING
The modeling of clothes where the clothing is the central focus of the photos.
FETISH MODELING
FIGURE MODELING
This is a form of nude modeling normally used for art rather than glamour.
FITTING
FITTING MODEL
FULL NUDITY MODELING
With full nudity, you are expected to completely disrobe and your body will be fully exposed to the camera. Unless you have been warned in advance and have agreed to it, poses should be tasteful and should not include graphic views of the genitals.
GIG
A slang term for a job or a booking.
GLAMOUR MODELING
A broad term of modeling where the model’s appearance, rather than the attire or product is the central focus of the photo. There is a misconception that glamour modeling involves nudity. A glamour shot could be nude, but it could also be taken in formal evening attire. It is the presentation of the model, not the wardrobe that makes a shot glamour.
GOLDEN LIGHT
The period at dawn or dusk when the outdoor photographic light takes on a golden hue, which is ideal for taking pictures.
GO-SEE
Similar to an audition. You go and visit a client to investigate what a particular assignment entails.
GUILD
Guild is term used to identify most of the unions dealing with film/video. Good examples are the Screen Actor’s Guild, the Writer’s Guild and the Director’s Guild. There is no union representing models because there is no conglomerate group that employs them as there are studios in the film business. In several cities there are companies that call themselves the Model’s Guild (Seattle Model’s Guild, the Model’s Guild of Los Angeles, etc.). Although these are official sounding names, these are just private companies that have no official affiliations. These companies should be evaluated on their own merits and not by their names.
GWS
Acronym: “Girl with snapshots” is a derogatory term for a girl with no experience who posts snap shots or webcam images as her “portfolio” and then posts her modeling rates in her on-line profile.
GWC
Acronym: “Guy with camera” is a derogatory term for an amateur photographer more interested in collecting model photos as trophys as opposed to capturing good images.
HARDCORE MODELING
HEADSHEET
HEADSHOT
HONEY WAGON
The portable restrooms brought to locations by film companies to provide for the comfort of the cast and crew.
IMPLIED NUDITY
Where implied nudity is required for a shot, you will generally be asked to disrobe fully or partially. While the standard is subjective, a photographer will normally not reveal nipples or genitals in the photographs. In some cases, buttocks will be shown. The essence of implied nudity is that the photograph is suggestive but not revealing.
IMPRESSION
That is the term that reflects one viewing of a print advertisement by an individual. Thus if four people see an ad, that would be four impressions. The number of impressions may not necessarily equal the number of copies printed. For example if you printed one hundred posters and each was seen by three people that would be three hundred impressions. Impressions are important because the rates paid to talent for national advertisements, etc., are often based upon the exposure measured in the number of impressions.
LICENSE
When a photographer takes a photo of a model, he almost always owns the copyright to a photograph. If a model is given and wants to use pictures she has been given from a photographer, she needs to ask him for permission to do so. The giving of permission is a license by the photographer to the model to use the photos for a specific purpose. Some photographers have detailed, legalistic forms for this purpose, others just grant the consent in a note or e-mail. Photographers also give clients a license to use the photographs that they have taken.
LINGERIE MODELING
This term would seem self-evident, but it is not. Lingerie is a broad term signifying modeling in undergarments or sensual sleepwear. However, the model needs to realize that lingerie varies from quite modest to very revealing. Always inquire as to whether it is sheer or tasteful lingerie when considering an assignment.
LOOK
The unique appearance of the model.
MAXIM-STYLE
MEET AND GREET
A first meeting with a client where you are not auditioning for a specific assignment. Instead you are introducing yourself to a client with the hopes that you will be considered for a future potential assignment.
MINI-BOOK
MUST JOIN
This is a union term applies to film and video. For simplicity we will use SAG as an example. If you are not a member of SAG but have already had one speaking roll in a SAG project, you will be required to join the union before you can appear in a second SAG project. You can also reach a “much join” status if you have appeared in SAG projects as a SAG extra and have accumulated a certain number of vouchers.
OPEN CALL
An audition that is not by invitation or appointment, but instead is open to anyone who wants to try out for a particular opportunity.
OPEN SET
A set that is open for anybody who has access to enter. Sometimes an open set is open to the general public, but it is usually just open to people who happen to be in the studio, on location or on a studio lot.
PARTS MODELING
Modeling of a specific body part such as hands or legs. A model normally specifies which body parts she is interested in working with.
PER DIEM
A payment given to a model who travels to cover her daily expenses. A model could be given a flat per diem to cover all expenses including lodging, transportation, meals and incidentals or just specific things like food. In the latter case, the client might choose to pay things like lodging separately.
PETITE
This is a misunderstood term. Generally speaking, large agencies look for talent to be 5’9″ or taller because that is what is needed for fashion and runway. There is a smaller market for petite models, but there are opportunities for them with agencies. A petite model is normally one who is 5’6″ to 5’8″. In addition to fashion, petites often find work in the commercial area. A model shorter than 5’6″ is considered sub-petite. Sub-petites have the greatest opportunity in glamour and body modeling.
PLAYBOY STYLE MODELING
This is a commonly used term to describe a tasteful style of nude modeling intended for print or Internet publication. The term is vague and often leads to misunderstandings. The reason is that Playboy Magazine has a constantly evolving style. Generally speaking, it means full nudity where the legs are kept reasonably together and there is no overt sexual activity. Our advice is when accepting Playboy Style assignments; discuss clearly what is expected to ensure that you are not being asked to do more than you feel comfortable with.
PORTFOLIO
A book, normally 8″ X 10″, 9″ X 12″ or 11″ X 14″ filled with photographic examples of a model’s work.
RELEASE
The document a model signs after a paid shoot giving the photographer permission to use the photos that have been taken. When a model has been paid to do a photo shoot, she will almost always be asked to sign a release, therefore, the model should always ask about this before accepting a booking and should read the release before shooting begins.
RESIDUAL
A payment made to talent for subsequent use of a material after its initial release. It normally applies to film/video. As an example, if an advertisement were to run on TV for six months and the producer chose to renew it for an additional six months, the talent would receive a residual payment to compensate them for the additional use.
RUNWAY MODELING Live modeling on a stage or walkway where clothing is the central focus of the show.
SAG ELIGIBLE In order to join SAG, you must first be given and actually accept a speaking part in a SAG project. Once you have appeared in a SAG project, you may join, if you choose within a specified period. During that period, you are free to do either SAG or non-SAG projects. AFTRA has similar requirements. You can also become SAG Eligible by appearing as a SAG union extra and accumulating an appropriate number of vouchers.
SAG Screen Actor’s Guild
SAG is the union that represents most actors in feature films (as well as some industrial films and TV commercials). The other dominant union is AFTRA (American Federation of TV and Radio Actors). AFTRA concentrates more on TV commercials and television programming.
SASE
This is a common term that many people don’t understand. It means “Self-Addressed, Stamped Envelope.” Basically, if you are requested to provide SASE when you are submitting photos for a project, it means that the casting director won’t send your pictures back unless you send a preaddressed envelope with postage already affixed.
SEMI-NUDE MODELING
SHEER/SHEERS
Modeling in clothing or drapes which are sheer or transparent. Generally the model will be exposed to the camera through the material. The model might be topless or completely nude beneath the sheers.
SHOOT
SIDES
A portion of a script that is given to an actor to read at an audition.
SPOKESMODEL
An assignment where a model promotes a product at a tradeshow, convention or similar.
STABLE
The roster of models represented by an agent.
STATS
The statistics for a model. Normally this is height, weight, hair color and measurements. Age is also included in some cases, but is not necessarily required.
STYLES
Types of modeling that a person would be interested in. Examples would be fashion, glamour, parts, implied nudity, etc.
SUBMISSION
The sending of your zed card to a project for submission.
SWIMWEAR
Self explanatory.
TALENT SCOUT
Someone who works for the L. A. Dodgers looking for baseball players to sign. This is a dangerous term and models need to be skeptical of anyone calling himself a talent scout. Generally speaking, larger agencies don’t go scouting talent. Enough people come to their door to keep their stable full. While managers and agents occasionally want to expand and thus seek talent, few companies have the need to employ full-time people to seek models out. Don’t expect to be “discovered.” While it happens, very rarely, success in this business comes from hard work and perseverance.
TEAR/TEARSHEET
Also referred to as a “Tear Sheet.” This is anything that has been published in print in which a particular model or photographer is featured. It is referred to as a “tear” because it is most often a page that has been torn from a magazine.
TEST SHOTS/TEST SHOOTING/TEST PHOTOGRAPHY
TFP
The term means “time for prints.” A model works for a photographer without a cash payment. Instead, the model is given a pre-arranged number of prints and/or enlargements as payment for her work.
TOPLESS
As the name implies, you will be expected to remove your top and the full breast will be exposed.
TRADE SHOW
A show where companies in a particular industry gather to demonstrate or promote their products.
U5
The term means “Under five lines.” It is a term used by the acting unions to designate a speaking part in which the actor delivers less than five lines. The term may be significant under some clauses of the SAG or AFTRA contracts.
ZED CARD
This is a misused term. A true “ZED” card is similar to a comp card except it is usually shorter than a comp card and folded into three sections. When looked at from above, it looks like the letter “Z.” ZED is how the letter “Z” is pronounced in England where the ZED card originated. People often use ZED card to refer to a comp card, but the usage is actually incorrect.